All Wine Doesn’t Have to Be Great – Just Good is Fine Some of the Time
Too often I think we all get carried away a bit with the idea that every wine has to be great or otherwise it is a failure in some way. The dolcetto grape has often been looked at by many as just a mediocre grape for mediocre wines, pizza wines if you will. Evan Dawson at Palate Press explains why this is not a bad thing but also explains a movement under way to elevate this grape above the lowly past that it has occupied for so long.
“Fans of Adam Sandler (yes, they still exist) will tell you that his films are not meant to be profound; they’re meant to make you laugh. They’re easily forgotten, but can provide a pleasant distraction for a short while.
What is wrong, then, with the notion of a simple wine? Why not happily accept that some wines are meant for contemplation-free consumption—lunch wines, if you like—that don’t challenge us to think or work hard to understand them?
For generations, this has been the role of dolcetto. The grape simply lacks the make-up of its local neighbors in Piedmont, nebbiolo and barbera. The dolcetto grape produces low-acid, moderately tannic wines that drink pleasantly for a few years, pairing with pizza and similar fare…”
I understand their position and desire to elevate the dolcetto grape and wine but that is not the point I want to address here. What occurs to me is more from a strictly business point of view. If you look at the overall wine market you will quickly see that there is a lot more quantity of wine sold in the under $10 per bottle segment than you might initially think. A lot of people drink a lot of wine for everyday enjoyment and it is in most cases not wine in the $25 – $75 per bottle segment of the market. Granted, there is more profit in each bottle but there are a lot fewer bottles actually sold which makes me wonder if there could possibly be something else at play here like prestige, ego, bragging rights or whatever moniker you prefer. The bottom line, at least for me, is (1) I like a good, not great, wine with pizza and I like it often and (2) the bottom line ( in total and not per bottle ) is the bottom line.
Photo credit Roboppy
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